Pitti Uomo is a one-of-a-kind trade show where the world's best dressed descend to the city of Firenze for a week of bespoke tailoring, buying, long days, later nights as well as everything a historical city in Italy can provide. The show first kicked off in the early 1970s, as a destination to showcase some of the finest Italian ateliers, brands, tailors and individuals. It was a place where quality craftsmanship, flamboyancy and classic proportions were embraced at a time where suits on the whole seemed to have been going out of — excuse the pun — fashion. Taking place in both summer and winter, the world’s preeminent figures would showcase their collections at these events, leading to it becoming the number one destination for men’s clothing. Brands including Cerruti, Lardini and Brunello Cucinelli, to individuals like Jean Paul Gautier, Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, and Virgil Abloh, have presented their latest offerings before travelling north to do it all over again in Milan for Fashion Week.
Fredrik Daun at Pitti Uomo 101
Pitti Uomo 97 (the ninety-seventh show) took place in all its glory in January 2020. The biggest brands and individuals in the world travelled to Firenze to experience the fair. What we didn’t know was that a month later, Covid-19 would decimate the country, and subsequently lead to the temporary end of travel. For many of us that have worked in the menswear industry for the while, the idea of no Pitti was surreal to say the least. Shows 98 and 99 were cancelled despite the Pitti Immagine team’s best efforts. A year later, with the pandemic still a pandemic but significantly more manageable due to the vaccine, show 100 went ahead in the summer of 2021 to a somewhat nervy reception. International travel was still not permitted, and the showcase was small and subdued with a majority audience of local Italians, a few from mainland Europe and a selection of aficionados from the US. However, this did give the industry a small sliver of hope: if this could happen, the learnings from this could be implemented for the January 2022 edition.
In the build up to January, the general consensus was that more people would be in attendance, and for the most part, this was certainly the case. The rise of the Omicron variation at the tail end of 2021 did mean a few last minute cancellations, but the majority pushed ahead. And it was worth it.
Luke Alland lights a Partagàs Serie D No. 6 cigar at Pitti Uomo 101
From the moment I boarded my flight from City Airport in London to arriving at the fair, the strictest protocols were followed to ensure we were all able to safely enjoy the first experience of travelling internationally again. KN95 masks were mandatory, and every restaurant, shop, bar in Italy required a green pass in order to enter. We began with drinks at the legendary Harry’s Bar in Florence, enjoying a Cuaba Divinos as the first Cuban cigar of the trip, before breaking out the Montecristos in numerical order.
Cuaba Divinos at Harry's Bar, Florence
The following day was the official launch of the show, and we were delighted to see so many incredibly dressed people, friends and brands reunited at the Fortezza da Basso. Without the usual peacocks, the show felt reminiscent to the early days of London Collections: Men, before it rebranded as a London Fashion Week afterthought. People that were genuinely passionate about all things tailoring and men’s clothing were finally able to speak to each other face to face. Evenings continued in similar fashion, with conversations over food, wine and Cuban cigars. There’s nothing quite like dinner at Cammillo, followed by a Partagàs Serie D No. 6 cigar along the River Arno before finishing at Caffè Gilli for a negroni nightcap, then doing it all over again the next day.
Rikesh Chauhan smokes a Montecristo No. 1 at Pitti Uomo 101. Photography by Peter Zottolo
Although this season was muted (attendance was slated at just over 8,000), it gives us hope that, come summertime, June’s Pitti Uomo 102 will be one for the ages. We can’t wait to see you there.