A fine Cuban cigar is a moment of opulence and indulgence, and nowhere does opulence and indulgence like Monaco. Since the late 1800s the Principality has built a name for itself as the world's foremost playground for the rich and famous: a place of glamour, excess and the highest standards of luxury and service. Today’s Monaco is a surprising, complex, at times bizarre and often beautiful place, and a great location to enjoy a cigar. Walk the streets and you will find that the air is often filled with the aroma of tobacco, as residents and guests alike take advantage of the temperate climate, the magnificent views and the generally relaxed way of life to have their own Habanos moment.
The House of Grimaldi has ruled this tiny pocket of land since the 13th century. When they decided to build a casino in the 1880s – housed in a magnificent building designed by the genius behind Paris’ legendary Opera Garnier – they officially invited the world’s richest inhabitants to treat their territory as a leisure complex, a place to indulge any whim under the glorious sunshine of the Côte d'Azur. The current ruler, Prince Albert II, has marked his reign with a strong push towards the sustainability of his state’s luxurious offerings. Renewable energy and ocean conservation are his key focuses, and evidence of this can be seen across the city state. Among other initiatives, the Yacht Club de Monaco – of which he is president – has installed charging points for electric launches and tenders, fuelled by solar panels which harness the power of that wonderful weather. These were installed during a renovation of the Club’s premises and marina in 2014 by Lord Foster; the next phase of the development will include a cigar terrace for members, complete with walk-in humidor.
Sadly, access to that terrace and its extraordinary views, across the Port de Monaco and towards the Prince’s Palace, will be restricted to the 2,500 Yacht Club members and their guests. If you’re not fortunate enough to own a luxury yacht and have been personally approved for membership by HSH Prince Albert, or know anyone else who fits these criteria, there are many other places in Monaco which are perfectly set up for cigar smokers.
Left: An EGM Cigar on the terrace of the Metropole's Lobby Bar; Right: The view of the hotel from Odyssey
Monte-Carlo is technically a neighbourhood in the Principality of Monaco, and the Hotel Metropole was built there way back in 1886. Today it retains much of its original architecture, but has seen the area around it completely reshaped. They offer a variety of outdoor spaces where guests can enjoy a smoke, with more planned for the future. The Lobby Bar serves breakfast, lunch and dinner on a secluded terrace with a view of a park and the casino, and is an ideal spot for a smoke. Renovation work planned for October 2023 will see this area expanded, with a dedicated area for cigars added on. Adjacent to the driveway approaching the hotel is Odyssey, a poolside restaurant designed for the hotel by Karl Lagerfeld. In the cabanas by the pool itself, at a table in the restaurant, or with a drink on the Sundeck overlooking the area from one story above – this section is perfect for a cigar any time of day or night.
The vibrant terrace of the Café de Paris
Around the corner from Hotel Metropole, on the legendary Place du Casino, is the Café de Paris. This is an upscale Parisian-style bistro with probably the most iconic view in town: across the now-pedestrianised square to the Casino de Monte-Carlo and Hotel de Paris. The architecture to look at is stunning, the supercars passing rolling by are astonishing, and the opportunities for people-watching are probably unparalleled. Behind the Café is a small casino – not as salubrious as its neighbour, but home to a decent cigar shop and an outdoor gaming area – but the real fun is in sipping a drink, smoking your stick and watching the surreal scenes which pass for daily life in Monaco unfold in front of you.
The secluded smoking area at The Bar Américain
The Bar Américain at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo
Across the square from the Café is the Hotel de Paris, probably the most famous and luxurious address in town. While there are terraces to the from which also overlook the square, the best is on the other side, part of the Bar Américain. The views here go through the side of the casino complex to the sea beyond; the location is set back from the road and gives a sense of tranquillity often missing from the bustle of the main tourist hotspot. Like any good American Bar in a luxury hotel, the focus is cocktails – the menu changes seasonally and has a host of signatures to sit alongside the classics. 1920s oak-panelled interior is juxtaposed with the cool modernity of the outdoor space and, if you somehow forget to bring your own sticks, the humidor is well-stocked. This is Monaco, after all.