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An Insider's Guide to Athens, Greece's Dynamic Capital

An Insider's Guide to Athens, Greece's Dynamic Capital

By Chris Cotonou

Athens has been developing fast over the past decade, welcoming visitors to new bars, exciting restaurants, stores, and even allowing a more liberal space to smoke than other capitals. In the middle of all of this is the city’s unbearably beautiful heritage and architecture. Whether you’re strolling the small, colourful houses of the Plaka, the fashionable Psirri, gauche Kolonaki, or the commercial Monastiraki area, historical delights appear and fade like moments in time. Between this carousel of antiquity are plenty of addresses to stop for a while, and to contemplate your trip thus far. 

So, while we’re in the city, we’ve decided to list some of our favourite authentic addresses for you to enjoy on your Greek urban adventure. Yamas. 

Smoke

Hotel Grande Bretagne 

A favourite of Winston Churchill, as well as so many other historical figures, writers, and artists, the Hotel Grande Bretagne exudes the Golden Age of Travel. The in-house Alexander’s Smoking Lounge has a worthy selection of Cuban sticks, chesterfield sofas, and a snug terrace. Or you can take your spoils up to the rooftop bar and smoke beside a stunning view of the Acropolis. Whatever you decide, order a Greek Metaxa brandy, a Cohiba Panetalas, sit back, and enjoy. 

El Habanero, Ag. Anargiron 1, Athina 105 54, Greece

Not a place to smoke per-se, but this store is in a central location and holds a pleasant selection of Cuban cigars, from Partagas to Trinidad. Better yet, it's on a small square where you can take your cigar to the terraced coffee shops or bars and relax among the sea of people. 

Foyer Cafe, Panepistimiou 46, Athina 106 78, Greece

One of the best modern cafes in the city. Foyer has a large outdoor seating area where you can watch people pass by and a liberal approach to smoking (you'll notice that a lot of people in Greece do). They sell a selection of art magazines, and delicious cakes. Make this your morning coffee address in Athens. 

 

Eat

Souvlaki Kostas, Pl. Agias Irinis 2, Athina 105 60, Greece

The best food is low-key in Athens; street food and simple taverna fare. You must, on any trip to the city, try one of the famous souvlaki spots, and Souvlaki Kostas is among the most beloved. Order the ‘kalamaki’ (skewer) instead of the carved gyros and allow a dollop of their notorious tomato sauce. 

Aleria Restaurant, Meg. Alexandrou 57, Athina 104 35, Greece

This upscale, smart dining taverna creates contemporary Mediterranean dishes in a haute setting. The courtyard space in particular is an inviting, modern area that is rather packed during the warmer months. Aleria is one of the restaurants spearheading Greece’s fine-dining revolution, so be sure to book early. 

Taverna Moskos, Leof. Irinis 19, Tavros 177 78, Greece

It’s worth visiting a family-run taverna during your time in Athens, and Moskos is one of the best. This isn’t a fancy place, but the food is traditional and cooked with care – including fish dishes freshly caught from near Piraeus, grilled meats, and house wine poured directly from barrels. This taverna is where the locals go. 

Dodoni Bakery, Likourgou 9, Athina 105 51, Greece

Near colourful Omonia Square, you’ll notice a large queue outside of this humble bakery. For millions of Greeks, breakfast is a soft, buttery tiropita, a cheese pie made with filo pastry. Ask the locals and they will point you to this address – an institution revisited by generations, and easily the best tiropita in the city. 

Kafeneio Evis, Ivis 10, Athina 105 54, Greece

An ouzeri is a place where you sip at sweet ouzo while enjoying typical Athenian dishes. Think of it like a Greek tapas. This locally-recommended ouzeri is close to the Acropolis, in the fashionable Psirri neighbourhood, and you will find a mix of businessmen and students sampling the calamari, sausages, and salads as they while away the hours. 

 

Bars

Alexander’s Bar, Hotel Grande Bretagne

Inside the Grande Bretagne is one of the best hotel bars in the world. A large, priceless tapestry of Alexander the Great cloaks the wall behind the selection of rare spirits. The bar-staff, as you might expect, are attentive and polite as your drink rests on the mahogany bar. This is a place to unwind in luxury, before heading upstairs to the smoking lounge for a Cuban cigar

Lokali, Sarri 44, Athina 105 53, Greece

Located in Psirri, Lokali is a large, trendy bar and restaurant with a garden. Their Greek wine list makes this spot a favourite, and in summer, the rooftop has majestic views of the Parthenon. It’s also a nice place to bring your laptop and do some work. 

Galaxy Bar, Stadiou 10, Athina 105 62, Greece

Considered an institution of drinking, Galaxy Bar has some old-world charm to it. This historic watering hole is popular for their large selection of whisky and Greek brandy (order the Metaxa 7, which is less sweet than the 12). As you drink, small, simple dishes will be brought to you at no cost. If you can only drop by at one bar in Athens on your trip, this would be it.

This sums up our trip to Athens. It's a city that demands time and patience, as opposed to the rushed trips to monuments and museums. Let us know below if there are any other addresses you would have put from your experience in the city.

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